Esther's expansion, French bistro & Italian grocery -- James Trees has big plans for The Arts Distrcit
Chef James Trees has big plans for the next year and a half. Esther’s Kitchen is moving. Its current location will be converted to an upscale French bistro. And its current prep room and storage area could become an Italian grocery.
For those who missed the livestream, those are just few of
the things Trees told the Food and Loathing podcast at Tony Gemignani’s International
Pizza Expo pre-party Sunday night at the Downtown Pizza Rock location. (For those
who want to catch up, you can hear all of the details on Ep 43 of the podcast, “PizzaLeftovers (Again)” -- or just keep
reading for the bullet points.)
Trees began by confirming that he’s purchasing the building
on the corner of Main and California Streets that has was home to the Retro
Vegas antique/furniture store.
“We have the great neighbors Bill and Bob who have been part
of the downtown scene since the early 90s, since they bought the property at
Retro Vegas,” James said of that deal.
“They are now ready to retire, so I asked them ‘What do you
want to see happen with the building?’ And they were like, ‘We want to make
sure the building goes to someone who’s gonna take care of it.’”
Taking that as his cue, Tress is purchasing the 5,000-square-foot
building, with plans to turn it into what he calls Esther’s Kitchen 2.0. He
expects to spend 12 to 18 months converting the space, and then make the move
quickly.
The considerably larger space will hopefully make it easier
to score a table in what has become The Arts District’s premiere dining destination.
But what will become of the original Esther’s space? According to Trees, there
are nine more years on the lease. So he’s going to use them to create something
he believes the neighborhood is sorely lacking: A French bistro. It will be
called L’Aristocrat, an homage to one of Las Vegas’ first French eateries, The
Aristocrat.
“My first places I’ve ever worked at were French,” Trees
says, noting his time at Eric Ripert’s Le Bernardin. “And I miss the simplicity
of really well-executed French food.”
When asked how formal/fancy the new place will be, compared
to some of the valley’s other French restaurants, Trees said an experience “between
Mon Ami Gabi and Bardot (Brasserie) is where we want to hit,” adding “I don’t
want to do anything like Guy Savoy, and Robuchon and Partage.” On a national
level, he compares his vision to Dirty French in New York City, and Southern California’s
Petit Trois or Bar Le Côte. But perhaps
most importantly, the chef plans to travel to France this summer to find additional
inspiration.
“The idea is this,” he explain of the trip: “Where do people
my age eat in Paris?”
Another planned summer sojourn – this one to Italy with chefs
Marc Vetri and Luke Palladino – might provide inspiration for another project. Trees
says he’s hoping to convert the space two doors down from Esther’s, which he
currently uses as a prep room and storage area, into an Italian grocery store and
sandwich shop open during lunchtime hours.
“Just grab-and-go-sandwiches, Italian grocery, bodega-style,”
he says of the concept. “Because we don’t have anything like a grocery store Downtown,
especially in The Arts District.”
For all of these projects, Trees knows the first step is assembling
the right team. He says he’s already begun looking for someone to help L’Aristocrat,
“because I have learned one thing – without the right team, you cannot do
anything.”
You can hear Trees’ full interview on Episode 43 of the Food
and Loathing podcast.